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Costume National - Menswear Autumn/Winter 2014/2015 Show in Milan (with interview)

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The elegance of david bowie inspires in ennio capasa a wardrobe comprising of suits made-up of longer jackets and close-fitting trousers, worn with cowboy boots. he creates a timeless hero that isn’t shy about mixing bold colours, like plum with red or in different shades. marble prints and stripes also bring an energetic feeling to this urban, winter wardrobe. leather, which is less present than usual for costume national, is no longer worn all over but here-and-there, including on the sleeves of a coat. intricate detail is found throughout the collection, like zips on the shoulder of a jacket, rendering it less classic and hinting at this italian designer’s passion, rock’n’roll.interview:i was inspired by the earliest period of david bowie and it was very interesting because you feel that he made some of the beautiful records like ‘law’ and ‘heroes’ and i think that is what we feel today, there is a lot of contradiction and he resolved this contradiction with the esthetic so he looked for a new shape, new cut, new colour and he tried to find a new balance and new proportions. so, i made the jacket a little bit longer and i tried to experiment with new colour combinations like burgundy and purple or wine and red, this that we have forgotten in a way and at the same time mixing all this into a new esthetic which is very rich and beautiful.everything was tailored but more relaxed and another point that really impressed me when looking at it was that amongst the few shapes, if you go into their cabin, there was an enormous amount of research into fabrics which is a very masculine mentality. we have very beautiful, luxurious fabrics like double jersey, felt and many beautiful wool satins and many special fabrics. there are also some technological approaches but fabric is the real player in the shows.music bandit & nikit - 2012