New york fashion week is full of change, marked as much by departures from leading brands such as tommy hilfiger or proenza schouler, as by the oppressive social and political context, notably through the rise of different women’s movements from #metoo to #timesup… fashion designers make the most their platform, the catwalk, to highlight their commitment by proposing a new woman who is sure of herself and who totally assumes her femininity. this was the case at two big shows, one which closed fashion week, marc jacobs and his extra-shoulder volumes showing a strong woman who dares colour. the other opened the week, the sensual woman, both tigress and disco as seen at tom ford. another way of presenting america, through an inventory of contradictory feelings, both joyous and scary. as seen at calvin klein by raf simons and his workwear outfits transformed with balaclavas, or at coach by stuart vevers and his mysterious forest densely populated with cool, subversive men and women. several events brightened up the week in new york, such as the presence of kering-owned italian house bottega veneta. its creative director, tomas meier, enjoyed opening a new store on madison avenue and offered a remarkable show, with sumptuous décor. another highlight was victoria beckham, who celebrated the 10th anniversary of her brand with an intimate show, and who broke her discretion by coming to embrace her family who were all sat front row. finally this fashion week marks a turning point with the departure of jason wu from boss with a well carried out last collection. plus, the elegant retirement of carolina herrera, aged 79, who will leave the title of creative director to her right hand man, wes gordon. the final touch goes to philipp plein, who has lived his american dream for several seasons, seeking to offer something extraordinary to a delirious crowd, with this time the presence of a robot who makes us dream of another world…until next season…musique bandit & nikit - 2018