Olivier Theyskens- Women's Autumn/Winter 2019/20 Show in Paris (with interview)
Designer: olivier theyskens inspiration: a private mansion undergoing renovation from the 18th century hidden in a paved courtyard in the 10th arrondissement is home to olivier theyskens’ show and new offices.collection: a wardrobe inspired by the film “blade runner” by ridley scott surrounding a slender and feminine silhouette with enhanced waists and oversized shoulders. we see detailed cuts on dresses with low backs and an enhanced bust. leather, crepe and lace are reinterpreted for midi-skirts, mini biker jackets and a slim fit dress with a train.peplum is strapped onto blousons and jackets. black dominates the collection with a touch of red and bright pink.focus on: a hounds-tooth long coat and a long dress with a bare back and slit on the side + wide and high waisted trousers + long and voluminous evening dresses.interview with olivier theyskens:this location is in the style of the directoire that i have always adored, it’s a precious place that has been preserved and the most beautiful example of the directoire style in paris. i am very lucky to work here as my offices are up stairs, as well as to present my work here as part of what could be opposition and contrasts in this collection with so many other references in the allure, the look and in the sound. i also referenced a film that i loved when i was a child called blade runner and so i find that the location gives off a bit of that faded and retro futuristic feeling.when you’re a couturier you want to drive everything forward, we work on the shoulders and we research necklines and how to put a dress together thinking about how it falls on the woman, what the cuts are like and all the technical solutions. the allure can add power especially an impressive or elegant one so all the work on the rigidity of the materials, leather, crepe, fluid materials, long and short clothes are all done through a couture approach let’s say. the work of a couturier is all the work that we have emphasised. the female body can be extraordinarily dressed up with a peplum, it’s beautiful, it’s a curve, it’s true that all the roundness of the waist and the curves of shoulders are very soft and she adds volume and structure. visually she creates architecture.music from the show (for use only in context of the show, under cover of the right to information).